The Enduring Glamour of Mushroom Julien

Mushroom season continues its stately autumnal progress.  Having stocked the freezer with mushroom soup, mushroom lasagna, and mushroom pâté, I suddenly remembered that most quintessentially mushroom-y dish of them all; one  I’m guessing none of us has enjoyed in quite some time: Mushroom Julien.  This fixture of glitzy Soviet-era restaurants and theater buffets is another…