With Butler, a recent offering of the ubiquitous Ginza Project, Chef Giuseppe Davi brings his contemporary interpretations of Sicilian classics to the fashionable Patriarch’s Ponds area.
The dining space occupies a two-story mansion and sprawls out lavishly onto a peaceful, spacious veranda. Well-heated and awning-covered, it’s not hard to imagine either a date or a meeting here, no matter the weather. The interior has a cozy feel, with historical touches – architectural molding and shelves crammed full of books — though you may find it has been reserved for a private party.
Saturday diners included both silent patrons plugged into bluetooth headsets and young ladies having apparently traded their yoga mats for stilettos, all here for the pleasures of wine and pasta.
Butler’s website promises seafood and Sicily, done up with innovative accents, from grapefruit to potato foam. As we waited, we were brought small nibbles of tomato and baba ghanoush topped with cheese foam, compliments of the kitchen. Such touches always help in making guests feel welcome. We were also given a good reception by the very attentive staff — who at times were a little too attentive. Waiters and waitresses kept swooping by to remove menus still in use, which became a bit of a comical relay.
Considering the carefully cultivated ambience around us, it came as quite a surprise when the classy music that had been lulling us deeper into our plush chair cushions suddenly gave way to a few violent pulses of indistinguishable syllables – mic check, as it turned out. What followed was an incongruous, karaoke-style performance of popular hits, ranging from Bon Jovi to Daft Punk. The sophistication level having plummeted so rapidly, we hid our chuckles as the eager waiter returned, bearing food.
The assortment of tuna, snapper, and red Sicilian shrimp tartare (1,300 rubles/$22) came with passion fruit and basil dust toppings — an intriguing addition. Though small, the trio was an elegant and fresh opening to the heavier plates to come. Paired with an ample basket of warm, crusty breads given upon request, we were well taken care of while waiting for more.
